Many Brits have an aversion to being charged for using the French autoroutes, the usual reason being that les Francais do not pay for use of the magnificent British motorway system.  Quite apart from the fact that most UK motorways are so bad that we should be paid to use them, it depends on how the construction of the autoroutes was paid for. 

Private investors were apparently not interested in areas where the earning potential was going to be low, forcing the state to provide funding.  On the other hand areas of high traffic density, such as autoroute rings around cites where several autoroutes join, would grind to a halt if brought into the peage system, forcing a mixture of state funding and subsidy.

This is why some rural portions of the autoroute system are free, good examples being the A75 south of Clermont-Ferrand (a truly great road, with bends, hills, and striking views – all very non-motorway) and the A20 south of Orleans (between Vierzon and Souillac).  Most areas around large cities are also free. The Michelin maps give a good guide to the payment status of these roads.

Obviously, certain sections of road should be avoided like le plague, such as the N6 between Paris and Lyons, and the N7 from Lyons to Avignon - particularly during the holiday season!  Generally speaking, expect mayhem on the autoroutes radiating from Paris, changing to anarchy as one becomes closer to the capital.

This means that if you plan your route carefully, mixing  peage and free autoroutes with good ‘N’ roads (many of which are now classified as ‘D’ roads, but often provide magnificent traffic-free driving) you can enjoy driving across France without paying too much in the process.  For example, my usual run from Calais to the Dordogne (via Rouen, Evereux, Chartres, Orleans, Chateauroux, Limoges, and Souillac) costs 23 Euros, a level which has been stable for at least ten years, the 'N' road sections using dual carraigeway almost exclusively.

Food is generally very good, and available at quite reasonable prices - one of the regulars is ham, sliced in a generous helping before your eyes and served with a choice of sauces, vegetables and potatoes for about £6-£7.

As one would expect, fuel on the autoroutes is more expensive than in supermarkets. The pumps usually have hoses of sufficient length to pass around the back of a car to reach a filler on the right hand side of most cars, so avoiding the usual UK queue of cars on the left hand side of a pump.  After filling, the accepted procedure is to move your car away from the pumps, and park before paying.  In some aires, at peak tourist periods, a cashier may be available in the pump area.

Exits are generally not signed as well as in the UK, often being a small white sign which is easily missed, particularly if overtaking a truck.  In areas where there are a lot of exits it pays to know the exit before the one you want, in order to be prepared.  Do not rely on a satnav to give you adequate notice, but write such information on a route card.  On the Parisian Boulevard Peripherique the exits are all named - Porte d'Orleans - Porte d'Italie etc, which makes navigation easier.  Features such as rivers often provide another handy prompt. 

A feature which we always miss on the UK motorways are the regular rest stops, or 'Aires,' providing toilets and picnic areas with wooden benches etc between the 'Aire de Services.'  These provide a welcome opportunity for a loo break, a picnic lunch, a snooze, or just a walk, but as they do not generate revenue I doubt if we will ever see them in the UK.

Toilets are usually very clean, although occasionally the hommmes or dames facilities may be closed for cleaning or maintenance, when everyone shares!  The over-modest Brits and Americans are usually horrified by this practice, but after all, we share facilities at home, don't we?  When you have to go, you have to go!

I was asked if the French autoroutes gave sufficient time for a visiting British driver to get back to his right-hand-drive car after paying the Peage toll fee, before the barrier was lowered again.

There are no such problems - the barrier will not come down again until the car has passed under it, and they do not cut fibreglass cars or stretched limos in half either!  A friend with a Daimler SP250 still has a whole car . . .

Take great care when pulling to the right, for many drivers think they must accellerate as hard as possible on leaving the barriers!  For this reason it is best to make your initial accquaintance with les Autoroutes by using the RH lane.  Keep to the right if possible, to avoid getting involved in a drag race with the locals as you leave, and also to be able to pull into the parking area if you want to rearrange your credit card or wallet, or safely store your ticket.

As you approach the exit point peage booths you will have ample warning by the progressively lower speed limits - remember that they are there for a purpose,and that failure to obey them is regarded as a speeding offence. There is often a small gendarmerie on the other side of the peage booths, so expect speed checks in these areas. 

At the start of the A16 peage zone outside Boulogne payment machines are obligingly provided on both sides of the RH lane, specially for puzzled Brits!  It is assumed that by the time you leave the autoroute you will have come to terms with the system.

If travelling without a passenger, don't feel guilty about holding up traffic while you walk around the car to collect a ticket or make payment - the French will appreciate your situation, and are quite  considerate - but a smile and a wave goes a long way.

Just avoid the lanes marked only as 'Telepeage,' (usually on the extreme left) which are denoted by an orange 'T' as these are only for drivers with a transponder - we have one on each car. so can just drive in and leave payment to the electronic gremlins, who use a monthly direct debit on our bank account.  Users of British bank accounts can now also open a Telepeage account, but it is probably not worth the trouble unless you visit France frequently. 

Most other autoroute lanes are marked with an orange 'T' and a green arrow, and can be used by Telepeage or cash users.  Those marked with an orange 'T' and symbols denoting credit cards (or the legend 'Cartres du Credit') can be used by both Telepeage customers and those paying by any credit card, or French ‘Carte Bleu’ debit cards. Sometimes you will see a lane (usually on the extreme right) marked 'Monnie,' with a legend showing coins and notes, which is reserved for those paying in cash only.

The company which manages the Telepeage system, SANEF, now holds the franchise for the Dartford Crossing, and have hinted that they may apply the same system, rather than the clumsy internet and ANPR-based payment system which they inherited.  It is possible, therefore, that Telepeage may soon come to the UK – just wait for the whines of protest from the Little Englanders . . .

Good article and also good to see you doing what you do best. Actually I love the French MWays generally free from traffic. Your description of the more scenic routes is very useful.

regards

Mike Fishwick wrote: Basically, on entry to a peage road you will stop at a barrier where you must collect a ticket, sometimes by pressing a button.  The barrier will then rise, and will not fall until you have driven away.  I was asked if the French autoroutes gave sufficient time for a visiting British driver to get back to his right-hand-drive car after paying the Peage toll fee, before the barrier was lowered again. There are no such problems - the barrier will not come down again until the car has passed under it, and they do not cut fibreglass cars or stretched limos in half either!  A friend with a Daimler SP250 still has a whole car . . .

Indeed! Once I was travelling in my Jaguar and I stopped at the barrier and I got out to get pay for the ticket after I turned the engine off. When I went back to car, it would not start straight away and then the J-gate gear lever would not move...eventually took me nearly 1 min to get going.

I still have the car in one piece fully operational

Mike Fishwick wrote: If travelling without a passenger, don't feel guilty about holding up traffic while you walk around the car to collect a ticket or make payment - the French will appreciate your situation, and are quite  considerate - but a smile and a wave goes a long way.