E3 owners - where are you...?

The E3 register was (maybe still is) run by Nigel Gibb. He got a bit annoyed because none of the E3 owners were supporting him but there are very few around.
That looks to be a worthwhile project - is it very rusty? I had a 3.0S around 10 years ago (PGN34L) but it was very rotten underneath when i got rid of it. A guy in Reading has it along with various other ancient BMW's and tons of spares.

RHD E3's have the dreadful twin servo braking system which should be removed and binned. If yours has been stood for any time the servos will be knackered and you can't buy them new. Forget about reconditioning them, it doesn't work.
Your options are either a pair of MGB Lockheed servos (around £300 a pair) or find a late E12 525/528i and rob it of it's single vacuum servo set up.

Edited by AndrewE - 10 Nov 2009 at 7:57pm

Can't find Nigel Gibb on the members list - anyone know if he's still on the Forum?

Right hand drive E3's (along with 2002's, E12's, E9 Coupes etc) use twin servos, one servo per circuit. This was done because the steering column prevented the standard servo being mounted on the bulkhead.
Later E12's from around 1977 (ish) used a long bracket that bolted to the bulkhead and moved the master cylinder and a conventional vacuum servo to an area just behind the O/S headlight.

The problem with the twin servo set up that it has not one, but three master cylinders, one on the bulkead activated by the pedal and another master cylinder per servo. The potential for brake failure is very high - indeed, on my 3.0S a servo failed so I diconnected it and let the remaining servo do the work - not ideal!

The later E12 set up would be cheapest, provided you can find one! The pedal box changed as well but you could rob it from the same car. The E12 5 Series is only a shortened E3 platform anyway and lots of bits are common. You could either use 528i vented front brakes (just the discs and calipers) or use the existing non ventilated 2500 brakes. What you do is link the two flexys from each caliper together using short steel pipes (or copper - much easier to use) into a standard 3 way connector - the type used on E30 rear brakes for example. Then run a single pipe from that connector into another 3 way connector which links both front brakes and then into the relevant master cylinder outlet. On the rear brakes the pipe from each caliper just goes into one at the 3 way connector (or 'T piece') and from there to a single pipe that runs from the back to the master cylinder.
I would also replace the main master cylinder. These fail as well, and the kiss of death is to pump-bleed the brakes. These were steel bodied cylinders, and the area beyound the standard operating area of the cylinder seals rusts due to water in the fluid. Pump bleed the brakes and the seals go into the rusty area and ruin them.
An E3 will certainly need a complete set of flexy hoses. On mine they were all internally collapsed leading to dragging brakes, and the clutch one was faulty as well.
If you need to remove the front struts, beware the three bolts that hold them to the lower platform that the suspension arm connects to. These just love to snap off so use the gas torch to get them red hot first - or put the car somewhere where it doesn't need to be moved whilst you get the broken bolts drilled out.

Not even started on the 35/40INAT carbs yet, or the voltage regulator.....


I recognise that beige E3. I recall it was restored and sold needing some engine work? They're a very good car to drive, better than the original E23 that replaced it.

Thanks again Andrew, your information is much appreciated.

would love to see pictures of the restoration, cracking looking car - well done!

Happy to post pictures and info as I progress.

Edited by BMW250L - 17 Nov 2009 at 7:19pm

Home is Maidenhead, Berkshire, although the car is in my workshop about 7 miles away nr Bracknell.

Thanks Andrew, that would be much appreciated - Theale is only just up the road!

im enjoying every minute of this!excellent to see a old bmw being retored,and whoever is welding needs a pint or two,it makes a change to see some good workmanship going into it instead of the patch over repairs which people claim to be "repaired"

Don't forget to get a Waxoyl gun and a compressor so you can blast a few litres of the stuff into it.
Did you contact Marc by the way?

BMW250L wrote: Happy to post pictures and info as I progress.   Also, would be delighted if it made it into the club mag!   Great that I've had some interested - still havn't found any E3 owners....   Cheers,   Martin.

Will it be ready for next October? Can you get a day of work?

Wednesday, 6th October 2010 is our National Trackday at Silverstone.
This was formerly called the CSL day as it was organised and run by the CSL section of the Club.

I have enlisted the help of John Castle and he is going to put on a static display of all the E3's he can lay his hands on - Some of them will take part in the on track action but I suspect most of them will just be for display.

John will also do one of his seminars and have an E3 Q+A session.

If you are into E3's, this is the place to be.

Nick. Thanks for the response - in fact thanks to everybody, it is very motivating to get some positive feedback and gives me a warm glow inside whilst I toil away in my very,very cold workshop!

Had a look at it on Ebay - looks nice - hope it makes good money and finds a new and enthusiastic owner!

I did a load of research and decided in the end to use DINITROL for the cavity wax and underseal. It appears a great product and was easy to apply and has given a good finish.

Edited by BMW250L - 13 Dec 2009 at 9:17pm