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PUTTING AN ENGINE OIL ADDITIVE LIKE SLICK 50

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BrianMarkWilson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BrianMarkWilson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: PUTTING AN ENGINE OIL ADDITIVE LIKE SLICK 50
    Posted: 08 Mar 2016 at 6:35am
WHAT  IS THE VEIW ON ENGINE OIL ADDITIVES
SAY FOR EXAMPLE SLICK 50 ?

AND ENGINE FLUSH... WHAT DID YOU DO...

BMW E320 318I
ENGINE DONE 140,000


THANK YOU

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RParkinson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RParkinson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2016 at 8:13am
With modern oils, changed at regular intervals, the additives are totally unnecessary.   Far better, and cheaper, to use a good quality oil rather than a cheap oil and an additive. 

By the way, using all caps makes a post more difficult to read and can be taken as 'shouting', better to use regular capitalisation with mainly lower case.


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Mike Fishwick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Mike Fishwick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2016 at 9:25am
Slick 50 can often increase wear in an engine!  there are several US universities, not to mention NASA, who have proved this in their tests, and when du Pont, who manufacture the PTFE they use, tried to stop its use, but were unable to do so on some obscure pretext.

I have an old article on the subject, which hopefully may become added to the 'How To' forum.

Just change the oil every 10k miles or so, forget about the idiot lights, and you will be OK.

With regard to flushing, it is really no longer necessary if the engine is internally clean - the inside of the oil filler cap gives a good guide.  If in doubt, use a high-detergency oil - most diesel oil types now are anyway - and give it a couple of changes at about 5000 miles.  This will get any sludge out of the engine. 

Extended oil changes are a curse, particularly if performed cold - see my bits on choosing engine oil, and that on oil changes in the 'How To' forum area.


Edited by Mike Fishwick - 08 Mar 2016 at 11:43am
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BrianMarkWilson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BrianMarkWilson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2016 at 6:53pm
Thank you all for the advice.
does help.
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estoril View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote estoril Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2016 at 7:17pm
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BrianMarkWilson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BrianMarkWilson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2016 at 7:46pm
Thank you all for your advice.... 
while at work this topic came up again... and i told them your advice.. and all agreed with you

we then went on to fuel additives petrol and diesel

most of the fitters were thumbs down on putting in an addertive  in diesel cars fitted with a cat
but all were in favor of putting in and addertive if petrol

any veiws.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dteagles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2016 at 9:26am
There are times when a fuel additive is appropriate such as running an older car on modern fuel with it's high methanol content that can break down rubber seals, and of course the obvious lead replacement additives should you have a cylinder head without the appropriate valve seats.

I think there is some evidence to suggest that you can clean up a fuel system using an appropriate additive but generally they don't do anything for day to day use, the only other reason to use one (in my opinion) is when you are leaving a car laid up for months, in this situation the fuel can go stale so a stabilising additive might help but you're unlikely to notice any issues anyway and will be sorted out sat the next fill up! It's probably better to empty the tank if you can and fill up when you next need to use the car.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MHunt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2016 at 2:38pm
I'm with Darren on all counts.  Oil is the lifeblood of your engine and only stick things down that hole when you completely understand the effect they will have, and any downsides.  I have found the chaps at Opie Oils give very sound advice.  and for those who *really* want to know about oil - have a read of this thread the next time you have a month going spare: (the research of Raymond Woertman is legendary).
 
As Darren says, the case for furl additives is more nuanced (but still do your research).  I have used Wurth fuel additive to clean injectors when I have bought used cars and not seen any downside.  I bought a bottle of Stabil to lay the M3 up this winter, but then decided not to use it as I had never had an issue with 4 months downtime in the past.  Might try it next year.
 
I also keep a bottle of Octane booster in a Jap import car that should only really run on V power, in case I am forced to use lower Octane fuel at any point.  (And that car visits petrol stations a lot).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BrianMarkWilson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2016 at 5:28pm
Thanks DT and MH for the info...i was a great user of addertives but i am now slipping away from them. just keeping the car well maintained seems to be paying off..

thanks again lads
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NickDE View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickDE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2016 at 7:20pm
Originally posted by dteagles dteagles wrote:

 better to empty the tank if you can and fill up when you next need to use the car.

I understood that it is better to leave a car with a totally full tank, if it has a metal tank. This is to stop condensation forming which leads to the tank rusting from the inside out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MHunt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar 2016 at 6:53am
Originally posted by NickDE NickDE wrote:

Originally posted by dteagles dteagles wrote:

<span style="line-height: 16.8px;"> better to empty the tank if you can and fill up when you next need to use the car.</span>


I understood that it is better to leave a car with a totally full tank, if it has a metal tank. This is to stop condensation forming which leads to the tank rusting from the inside out.


If the layup period is 6 months or less then I agree, I would brim the tank.

Edited by MHunt - 11 Mar 2016 at 6:53am
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Mike Fishwick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike Fishwick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2016 at 10:17am
I would suggest a full tank anyway - and of 97b octane, which stores better than the 95 octane rubbish.

I have no complaints about Millers fuel additive - I have used their petrol additive in my Z3 for about 100,000 miles, and previously Golf GTIs for double that distance, finding that it kept the injector nozzles spotlessly clean, when others were having them ultrasonically cleaned.

Likewise, their diesel additve can work wonders - our Golf TDI was really off-colour by about 50,000 miles, struggling to reach 50 mpg on a 70 mile motorway run.  After the first dose, it easily managed 60 mpg on the same run (Plymouth to Taunton on the M5) and maintained this to Nottingham, using secondary roads all  the way. 

After 212,000 miles we still use it -   the engine remains silky smooth, the unit injectors have never been out, and the high-pressure fuel pump was only replaced as a preventative measure at about 200,000 miles.  Fuel consumption averages 50 mpg even in our very cold winters, with up to 75 mpg in summer.

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Lancs BMW View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lancs BMW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2016 at 11:36am
Whilst I would never openly disagree with other people's opinion my stance is as follows. Having been in the Parts trade for almost 40 years I've seen some horror stories over the years.

My advice has and always will be this, with older engines and higher mileage do a flush every other service. This removes gum and keeps your oil ways clear and clean which prolongs engine life. I also recommend an oil additive, I use Lucas Oil Treatment. I've used it for years, if you read up on it it speaks for itself. As for Oil you don't need to use (named) brands as long as it meets and or exceeds the recommended spec then your ok.

I own a 96 328i sport with 107k n the clock, I know the history of its service life and it's been looked after. I use Comma 10/40, Mann Filter, Comma or Wynns flush and Lucas Oil Stabilizer. My engine purrs like a cat. I also use Comma Petrol magic once every couple of months to clean the fuel system.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BrianMarkWilson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2016 at 11:51am
hi lancs bmw.
thank you and all the others for there imput....

i wilkl use a flush and we stock the lucas products ... will give this a go 

my e30 has done 147,000 miles and i am replacing just about everything at the moment from spaings and shocks to a full service ... it will be worth it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rpennington Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2016 at 5:28pm
I have been looking at using a fuel additive to clean the fuel injectors & system on my E46 323i, but didn't know which is the best one to go for as I have seen a lot of different types in halfords as they have offers on at the moment on motoring products.
I have used slick 50 as an oil additive a few years ago in a cavalier Sri I had & have thought about putting it in my 323i as it has now done about 125k miles. I do have it serviced when necessary & use fully synthetic oil & so did think about using slick 50 for synthetic oil.

Regards
Rich
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2011 E90 325d msport - sold
2014 F30 335d xdrive msport plus pack - sold
2018 f36 420d msport gran coupe xdrive - written off
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