Oil change intervals?

New member here so pardon if this question has been asked before.  I did check five pages back in this forum, and didn't find the answer.

I have enjoyed 2000 miles in my new 340i, and I hope to enjoy many more.  The instrument cluster tells me the first service is at 18000 miles, which no doubt will include an oil and microfilter service.  However, other people claims that oils - no matter how good they are - will degrade past 10000 miles, so it is recommended to have it done around that mileage.  Can anyone shed some light on the best/correct approach here?

Regards,

Jens

Yes - if yu have any real nterest in the car, look at an oil change every year/10,000 mies at the outside, irrespective of the Service Indicator.

Also - transimssion oils every 3-5 years, power steering ouil every five years, battery levels every year, and brake fluid every year or two - changed by bleeding through the caliper nipples, rather than just sucking out the reservoir, and not forgetting the clutch.

Also remember to remove the brake calipers and grease the areas on which the pads slide.

jenshb wrote: How will the additional oil change affect the readout of the Service indicator?  Does it assess the condition of other components that will need servicing at approximately 18000 miles, or is the condition of the oil the driving factor? Jens

My Z3 has covered 130,000 miles and does not burn oil, but talk to anyone with an N54-engined car, and you will hear tales of horrendous consumption, which dealers discount as 'Acceptable' when compared to BMW's level of about 350 mpp.  This may be due to the current fad for using synthetic oil from new, so extending the running-in period, but allowing the first service to be a year after purchase.

It seems to be not uncommon for the oil level sensor (remember there is no dipstick - in the name of progress!) to call for a litre of oil very frequently.  This could be the reason BMW sell an oil-top-up kit, with a litre of oil in a pretty little zip-up bag.

Our Golf TDI has covered 213,000 miles, and does not burn any oil either!

Changing an oil filter on a modern BMW is so easy that there is no excuse for not doing it.  I always remove the fuel pump fuses and crank the engine in short bursts until the oil pressure lamp goes out, in order to fill the filter bowl before starting the engine.  This avoids running the engine with no oil supply to the bearings.

The use of synthetic oil from new is another reason for high oil consumption, as it prevents rapid bedding-in of the piston rings, as is the lack of engine running by BMW after they are built - apart from M Power types.  See my bit on oil changes in the 'How To' forum area.

A lot of today's drivers have the idea that engine braking is somehow bad for the transmission, which is probably based on the pathetic idea that 'Gears are for going, and brakes are for stopping,' which is fostered by a lot of driving instructors.  This is why we see a lot of people riding the brakes down long hills, rather than simply changing down a gear or two.

On the subject of driving instructors, they also teach pupils fo always park in neutral, which can cause a lot of modern cars with aluminiumm rear calipers to run away while parked when the calipers have cooled down - the MINI is just one such example.   I think the reason for this idea - which probably comes from the DSA - is that it means the car can be easily towed away!  When parked in gear of course, both sets of wheels are locked . . .

On the subject of silly ideas, another is fostered by the IAM book 'Advanced Driving,', which states that one must never use the brake and throttle at the same time.  When we did the IAM course we were lucky in having an ex-police observer, who worked by the police 'Roadcraft' manual, so did not object to our usual heel and toe-type style.  'Roadcraft' states that such use is a skill worth developing . . .


Edited by Mike Fishwick - 16 May 2016 at 1:13pm